National Geographic Adventure, February 2000

National Parks in Winter

America's natural wonders were chosen to be national parks to preserve their indigenous state. Yet, if you venture to places like the Grand Canyon or Yosemite in the summer, "forever wild" seems more like "forever congested." Come winter, these same parks are virtually uninhabited, almost returning to their original state. Cold weather can add a sense of wild enchantment-a layer of frost on the Canyon's North Rim, icicles hang from Yosemite's granite grandeur, the mixture of fresh snow and the briny Atlantic at Acadia. So grab your hiking boots, snowshoes, or cross-country skies and check out the country's most scenic spots the way John Muir and Edward Abbey did, alone in their own private playground.

•   Yosemite National Park
•   Grand Canyon National Park
•   Acadia National Park
•   Zion National Park
•   Grand Teton National Park

Yosemite National Park

To truly savor the feeling of being alone in a National Park, make snow angels at the roots of 200-foot sequoia trees in Yosemite's Mariposa Grove. A 2-mile snowshoe trek in and you're staring at these titanic trees, their shaggy orange bark a striking contrast to the frigid whiteness that envelops the rest of the forest. But that's not all. Yosemite is a winter wonderland where you can play amidst sheer granite cliffs and domes, iced-over waterfalls, and towering trees. Cross-country skiers cherish the ten miles of groomed track that leads to 7,000-foot high Glacier Point. Here, a backcountry hut offers accommodations and a thrilling view of the Yosemite Valley. The sheer walls of the silvery Half Dome plunges some 4,500 feet down to a handful of figures swirling on the luminescent orb otherwise known as the Curry Village ice rink. The park is also home to one of the oldest downhill ski areas in California, Badger Pass, built in the late 20s in a bid to get the 1930 Winter Olympics. The bid failed but the resort, with a vertical drop of only 800 feet, is now one of the best places in the West to learn how to ski. At night, take refuge around the massive fireplace in the Ahwahnee Hotel's Great Lounge (209/372-1407). This spacious lodge was built of heavy timber and stone in 1927. Speak to a Yosemite ranger at 209/372-0200. For information on lift prices and rentals at Badger Pass, call 209/372-1445.

Grand Canyon National Park

At the mile-deep Grand Canyon, it's not uncommon to start in down parkas at the South Rim (7,000 feet) and, two hours later, meet hikers in shorts and tank tops. Indeed, temperatures can be 20 degrees warmer on the shores of the Colorado River. Few of the trails stay sunny in the winter, so hypothermia can be a problem. The warmest winter corridor to the bottom is the route from Bright Angel to South Kaibab. Hike down the steeper 7-mile Kaibab Trail and then loop back on the far gentler 9.5-mile Bright Angel Trail. You'll find that the canyon's colors and forms looks even more dramatic as winter's sun casts long shadows and storms moisten rocks. All campgrounds on the South Rim stay open year-round while the much colder and snowier North Rim (1,000 feet higher than the South Rim) requires a backcountry use permit and is inaccessible to cars. Call the Grand Canyon National Park (520/638-2631) for more information.

Acadia National Park

Popular with mountain bikers in the warm-weather months, Acadia's carriage paths offer an unparalleled cross-country skiing thrill-the chance to smell the salt of the Atlantic while gliding on snow. 55 miles of trail head deep into the piney interior. One of the best routes is a loop around Eagle Lake, steadily climbing, only to coast downhill when Cadillac Mountain dramatically came into view. To get to the pinnacle of this 1,532-foot mountain, the highest point on the Atlantic coast north of Brazil, exchange skies for snowshoes. The popular 27-mile Park Loop is closed in winter so you'll have the summit to yourself. On a clear crisp day, you'll see Frenchman Bay's numerous small islands and, closer to shore, yellow and orange lobster buoys bobbing near the town of Bar Harbor. Back at Eagle Lake, you'll find locals ice fishing (they refuse to exchange their long johns and plaid shirts). The three main species are landlocked salmon, brook trout and lake trout (togue). Live golden or common shiners are the most commonly used bait. Near the foot of Cadillac Mountain, Blackwoods Campground and a small Visitors Center stay open year-round. For more information pertaining to Acadia, call 207/288-5262.

Zion National Park

With winter daytime temperatures in the mid-50s, Zion is a coveted off-season secret with hikers. The red and amber canyon walls that form a tower of massive rock is usually blanketed by snow at higher elevations (7,000 to 9,000 feet). Down at the 4,000-foot high Park Headquarters, however, all you'll need is a decent pair of boots. Flurries rarely make it to these lower heights. A good warm-up near headquarters is the 2-mile round-trip Watchman Trail. Climbing to a plateau near the base of a twisted monolith, the trail offers views of lower Zion Canyon, the Towers of the Virgin, and West Temple formations. Far more impressive is a hike in the Narrows where you walk in the Virgin River through a 1,000-foot-deep-chasm that's a mere 20-feet wide. You'll need a wet suit and booties because of the cool water temperatures, but that's a small price to pay to have this monster slot to yourself. If you have your heart set on cross-country skiing, head to the rarely visited Kolob section of Zion. Pinnacles project out of the high mesa floor that, at 7,000 feet, is covered with snow. For more information, call 435/772-3256.

Grand Teton National Park

Wedged between Yellowstone National Park to the north and the National Elk Refuge to the south, you can expect Grand Teton to have its share of big animals. More than 10,000 elk migrate south in the winter months along with huge herds of moose, and the occasional grey wolf. A good place to spot wildlife and cherish the dramatic mountain vistas is on the 6-mile cross-country ski trail that goes from Taggart parking lot north to Jenny Lake. Rising some 7,000 feet from the far shores of the lake, the jagged-edged mountains are grand indeed. Ice anglers congregate on Jackson Lake to try their luck hooking brown trout and Rocky Mountain whitefish. Extreme skiers will take the gondola to the top of Jackson Hole ski resort, southwest of the park, and telemark down the Teton's canyon walls. However, you better be a backcountry expert since the area is avalanche prone. The Moose Visitor Center is open year-round (307/733-2880). Rendezvous Guides and Adventures (307/732-2029) offers overnight backcountry ski trips into the park.